Posts Tagged ‘cylinder head work’

3-D Fast Cut

Monday, May 13th, 2013

3-D Fast Cut Ball Head Set-UpThis month in Tech Notes, we’re going to deviate a little bit from our usual how-to. Instead, we’re going to explain in more detail how you can use the 3-D Fast Cut™ to perform a wide range of machine operations.

Before we get into the ins and outs of the 3-D Fast Cut™ System, let’s look at a little history. Grinding is one of the earliest methods for machining valve seats along with the Neway Valve Seat Cutter. These methods all machined a single angle at a time which could be time consuming.  Multi-angle seat cutting first appeared in the Goodson catalog in 1991 Goodson Cover1991 when cutter bits and tooling from mira® were added to the product line. The first multi-angle cutter blades (FT-blades) appeared in the 1994 Goodson catalog and the 3-D Fast Cut™ system was born in 1997. The rest, as they say, is history.

One of the advantages of the multi-angle cutting systems (like the 3-D Fast Cut) is that you can cut more than one angle at a time. Blades are made from tungsten carbide for their cutting performance and long life. Blades can also be customized; if you need a specific profile, it’s not a problem. Blades can be sharpened and if they get chipped or can’t be sharpened any longer it won’t cost you and arm and leg to replace them.

Multi-Angle Cutter Blade from GoodsonAnother advantage is that the tooling and blades are pretty much interchangeable from one system to the next. This means that the 3-D Fast Cut™ tooling you can buy from Goodson is fully compatible with any you may have from Kwik Way or Peterson or Rottler or Serdi or ….

The biggest disadvantage to the whole multi-angle cutting system, regardless of who makes it, is initial investment. Once you get started, though, you can add blades or holders as you need them and soon, you’ll have an impressive range of tooling.

Examples of the range of ball heads available from GoodsonOver the years since the 3-D Fast Cut™ first appeared in the Goodson catalog, there have been a lot of updates and improvements to the tooling. You can now find Ball Heads that are smaller, larger or wider than the standard body. With all of these modifications, it’s now possible to cut seats that range from .550” up to 3.150”. All with the same basic seat cutting system.

Comparison of blade sizes - micro on left, standard on rightOne of the newest modifications to the 3-D Fast Cut™ system is the Micro tooling that enables seat cutting in very small bores. To accommodate these “micro” seats, the standard tip holders and the tips have been modified to fit (see picture at left showing relative blade sizes) without sacrificing cutter integrity or interfering with the combustion chamber wall. We didn’t forget the valve guides in the equation either. The 3-D Micro Tooling fits .236” top pilots that are available from .156” to .277”.

Just as we’ve added tooling over the years, we’ve added cutter blade profiles. In the 1994 catalog we showed a whopping 23 cutter profiles. Today (at least as of this writing) we stock 120 different profiles for everything from lawnmowers to land movers. As we said before, custom profiles are available (see back for more information).

The tech department (the guys who handle the majority of our new product research and development) did some creative thinking and came up with some other uses for the 3-D Fast Cut™ tooling. They like to say, “It’s not just for seats anymore.” With the addition of some custom holders, it’s possible to cut spring pads, contour bowls and drive counterbore cutters on your guide and seat machine.

One of the most interesting variations of the 3-D Fast Cut tooling was introduced in 2006 as a means of removing valve seat inserts.

As you can see, the 3-D Fast Cut™ system is a versatile and useful system to have in the shop. If you have an idea for how to expand the program even more, give us a call at 1-800-533-8010.

For more information about 3-D Fast Cut™ or any other technical topic, contact the Goodson Techxperts™ at 1-800-533-8010 or visit the Technical Library on our website.

Goodson to be featured on HorsePower TV March 9 & 10

Tuesday, March 5th, 2013

The guys at HorsePower TV will be demonstrating how to use Goodson’s very own Bronze-Liners and Bronze-Liner Tooling in the episode: Budget Cylinder Head Refresh, scheduled for this coming Saturday and Sunday (March 9, 10) on SPIKE TV. They’ll also give a quick demonstration on valve grinding.

HorsePower TV, part of the PowerBlock on SPIKE, airs at 9:30am (eastern), 8:30 (central) on SPIKE but be sure to check your local listings.

Refresh Your Cylinder Heads

Thursday, September 20th, 2012

As many of you already know, several Goodson Tools were recently featured on Horsepower TV (part of the Powerblock on SPIKE).

This episode, called “Budget Cylinder Head Refresh” shows a quick overview of a valve job, including how to repair guides with our Bronze Liners. You’ll also get to see how easy it is to grind your own valves.

Watch the video online, then check out the Cylinder Head Supplies section of our website for the tooling you’ll need.

In a Bind with Coil Bind?

Friday, August 17th, 2012

When you look at the specs for our valve spring kits, you’ll see coil bind height specified for every one of them. It is essential when installing valve springs that you know what this number is and take measures to avoid having your valve springs reach this. So, what is coil bind? Read on…

Coil bind is the point at which a valve spring is fully compressed so that there is no space between the coils. You do NOT want your springs to reach this position when in use since it will cause damage to the camshaft and valve train components.

To measure coil bind height, install the retainer in the valve spring and compress the spring until the coils are stacked tightly together. Measure from the bottom of the spring to the bottom of the retainer. This is your coil bind height.

So now that you know what the coil bind height is, what can you do to correct it in your head?

  1. Use offset retainers to give the spring a little more room but you MUST check your rocker clearance if you do.
  2. Use a longer stem valve with the appropriate length pushrod.
  3. Find a spring made of thinner gauge wire with virtually the same specs as the problem spring
  4. If you’re not too far off, you can cut the spring pad deeper using a tool such as our 3D-Fast Cut Spring Pad Cutters but you have to be VERY cautious with this so that you don’t irreparably damage your head.

As always, if you have more questions about coil bind or any other cylinder head rebuilding issue, feel free to contact the Goodson Techxperts™ at 1-800-533-8010 or drop us an email.

 

The Good, The Bad, And it Gets Ugly

Thursday, June 14th, 2012

Jim Tapp, Tech Services Department
By Jim Tapp

Goodson Tech Service

Is the grinding or cutting of valve seats taking way more time than necessary? Does it seem that hardly any of the seats are finishing on the same plane? Can’t seem to get a handle on what happened?

Is it bad leveling?
A defective cutter?
A non-concentric pilot?

Wow, we have all kinds of possibilities! And after we have eliminated one cause after another, we give up. Hey the seat’s good enough!

Not knowing the real problem, it becomes a living nightmare, head after head after head.

Ask yourself again, what have you forgotten? What else could be causing this problem? It’s easy to overlook the obvious – Replacement thick wall valve guides.

It would be wonderful deal if all replacement false guides were manufactured consistently and concentrically, but they are NOT. It has been my experience that it’s about a 50-50 dice role. Getting cast replacement guides to check out at a T.I.R. less than .001”, as they are guaranteed to be, doesn’t happen. Please don’t get me wrong, there are many guides manufactured perfectly, but they are usually a little more costly. Like always, you get what you pay for, hopefully.

How the heck do I check valve guides quickly and accurately?

Goodson Valve Guide Run-Out GaugeWith the Goodson Valve Guide Run-Out Gauge, of course. It takes a little over a minute to check a set of 16 valve guides for concentricity on both ends, after a short set up time. The part numbers for the tool are: VRG-375, VRG-385, and VRG-437, dependent on your pilot top size. This allows you to be in control of your valve seat work.

Need a little more information about this or any other Goodson tool? Call the Goodson Techxperts at 1-800-533-8010 or shoot us an email.

The Whys and Hows of Demagnetizing Engine Components

Thursday, May 31st, 2012

Jim Tapp, Tech Services DepartmentBy Jim Tapp
Goodson Tech Services Manager

We get a lot of questions on the Tech Help Line about demagnetizing engine components. If you do a web search, there’s a lot of differing information available. Some sources say it’s not all that important, some say it’s essential. Since we’re getting these questions frequently, I thought I’d weigh in on the subject too.

In my mind, not demagnetizing components you’ve worked on is kind of like taking a bath, then putting your dirty clothes back on. Doesn’t make a lot of sense and undoes all of the good work you’ve just done. So here goes. This is my view on whether or not to demag components:

Rebuilding engine components without removing the residual magnetism is flat out dangerous.

Magnetism is produced in engine components in a couple of ways.

  • Deliberately introducing a magnetic field into the part for the purpose of magnetic particle inspection (Magnafluxing).
  • Magnetizing parts with heat and/or friction such as when a connecting rod has bearing failure. This is the most common way that magnetism is introduced into engine parts.

The down side to this, and the point I’m trying to make, is that if the magnetism is not removed from the effected parts, engine failure is more likely to occur. Imagine a magnetic connecting rod in your engine. It’s going to collect all of the metal particulates and use them to abrade your machine work.

Magnetic Field IndicatorSo how do you tell that magnetism is present? Measure it. Magnetic fields are measured in gauss and the gauge used to measure it is a magnetic field indicator (Goodson #CR-2480). To see if you have any residual magnetism in your components, simply hold the field indicator close to the part. If it doesn’t read “0”, you have magnetism.

Demagnetizing TableDemagnetizing is accomplished by breaking up the D.C. (direct current) field with A.C. (alternating current). This is possible with the use of an A.C. demagnetizing table (Goodson #SPD-46). Place your part on the table top and turn the machine on. You will notice severe vibration. This is the A.C. attracting and repelling the part. While the machine is operating, slowly move the part away from the table to a distance of about two feet. Turn off the demag table and recheck the part with the magnetic field indicator. If the reading is not “0”, repeat the procedure until it does.

Remember if you have questions, the Goodson Techxperts are as close as a phone call (1-800-533-8010) Monday – Friday, 8am to 5pm (central). You can also reach the techs by email or visit the Goodson Tech Library.

Tips and Tricks for Installing Bronze Liners

Friday, April 13th, 2012

Using bronze liners is one of the fastest and easiest ways to repair valve guides. Here are a couple of tips to make it even easier.

One of the many sizes of Goodson Centering Cones for installing Bronze LinersUse a centering cone

With the cone centered on the existing valve seat and the extended pilot of the boring reamer located in the existing guide, boring alignment is assured. With accurate alignment of the new guide, minimal seat work will be required to finish.

Use the correct size centering cone

The centering cone must fit the valve seat properly so using the correct size is essential. This is not a one-size-fits-all tool. Goodson carries 60° centering cones in diameters from 1” to 2-1/2” so you can find one that will fit the seat you’re working on.  If you have a cone that’s too small for the seat it could slip right through the opening and if you have one that’s too large, the side of the chamber could interfere or you won’t have enough of the cone in the seat area for it to be stable and centered.

Diagram of how the centering cone fits the seatImage at left shows how the centering cone locates on the valve seat. In some chambers, particularly in small heads, the wall of the chamber may interfere with the placement of the cone. In this case, you will need a smaller cone so that it aligns in the seat correctly. Use the chart below to select the correct size centering cone for your application.

Nominal
Size
Part
Number
Top-Bottom
Size
 1.00”  CL-6310 0.970” – 0.730”
 1.25”  CL-6308 1.230” – 0.740”
 1.50”  CL-6306 1.475” – 0.805”
 1.75”  CL-6304 1.730” – 0.860”
 2.00”  CL-6302 1.950” – 0.875”
 2.25”  CL-6300 2.230” – 1.000”
 2.50”  CL-6312 2.550” – 1.875”

Use the correct tooling for best results

Bronze-Liner Tool KitsSeveral companies offer tooling for installing bronze liners and for the most part the tooling and the liners themselves are fully interchangeable with one important exception. Goodson offers liners for 5.0mm and 5.5mm guides and these two sizes require you use Goodson tooling.

Taking the Guesswork Out of Leak Testing

Thursday, April 5th, 2012

One of the most popular uses of a vacuum tester is the testing of valves and valve seats. After resurfacing valve and seats to ensure a gas-tight seal, we can test that seal with vacuum.

Assemble the cylinder head(s) completely with springs, retainers, keepers and spark plugs. Then cover the chamber you plan to test with a non-porous foam covered plate with a port for applying vacuum. Connect a vacuum source with the ability to produce and hold between 20 and 24 pounds of vacuum to the plate. Turn on the vacuum pump until maximum vacuum is achieved. This should equal the 20 to 24 pounds you achieved before connecting the test plate. If it doesn’t repeat this value or leaks down excessively, you have a leak that must be corrected. Usually this means you will need to re-machine the affected components.

Now here’s the really cool part. To determine where the leak is occurring, use a spray bottle filled with a bubble solution to lightly spray the combustion chamber. Spray the valves, valve seat area and the spark plug area too. Reinstall the closure plate and apply vacuum. Let it stand for a few seconds then release the vacuum and remove the closure plate. Note where the bubbles are located. This is your vacuum/air leak. No guessing required.