Goodson Tools & Supplies Blog

1) Use Goodson’s new Carbide Pilots for precise and high-quality valve seat and bowl work.

• Carbide Pilots help keep tooling cutting true. When cutting 3-angle seats, counterboring for seat rings or using Bowl Hogs to enlarge valve bowls, the resistance of the workpiece against the tool tries to deflect the pilot. Goodson Carbide Pilots resist this deflection five times better to keep the tool cutting precisely in its path.
• Carbide Pilots are resistant to wear and maintain “like new” precision. Carbide Pilots are much more resistant to wear than tool steel pilots. As steel pilots wear, they lose their initial precision and allow an increase in run-out with age. Carbide Pilots maintain their greater precision many times longer. Their stability in use and performance over a long period of time makes these pilots a greatly superior tool.
• Creates the most concentric valve seat finish. The rigidity of the carbide pilot (5 times less deflection) creates the concentric valve seat finish available. Please note, however, that due to the brittle nature of carbide, they must be handled with care!

Goodson’s carbide pilots have .375″ top-size and range from .157″ (3.99mm) to .379″ (9.626mm). We have your choice of Serdi-style straight (live) or conventionally tapered (dead).

2) Be sure to secure cylinder head.
Some shimming may be required to assure a more concentric seat and a better finish. Make certain that the cylinder head is firmly attached to the head fixture of the machine so that no vibrations can occur.

3) Keep tips sharp!
Remember that the tip (or formtool) should be kept sharp at all times. DO NOT allow it to become dull. The sharper the tip, the less drag it will have, thus reducing the chance for chattering.

By David P. Monyhan, ASE-Certified Head Specialist

As seen in Engine Builder Magazine

Today we’re going to talk about resurfacing machines for cylinder heads and blocks. These machines come in variety of styles and configurations as well as many colors. There are belt grinders, dry grinders, wet grinders, broaches and mills. There are different designs from under-head to over-head types. These machines use coated or formed abrasives, some use carbide and later styles or models use CBN or PCD, some use coolant and some are operated dry. Despite these differences, they all have two things in common; they make a warped surface flat and they need the same care and attention when it comes to the daily maintenance necessary to maintain their accuracy and dependability. Getting Started

All of these machines have beds or tables that you mount the work piece to. They all use similar type tooling for the mounting of the work piece. This tooling needs to be qualified to the machine to insure accurate set up.

Leveling Your Machine

For most machines you will do a four-point level. I recommend using a 12″ Starret level. Before you begin you need to be sure your level is calibrated. To see if your level is accurate simply place it on a surface you know is flat and take a reading. Then reverse your level 180 degrees. The reading should repeat. Even if the bubble isn’t directly in the middle as long as the reading repeats you know that the level is accurate. If it doesn’t repeat, do a quick calibration. Take a reading to determine how far the level is off. Now adjust the level, splitting the difference that it’s off. Again set the level back down on a surface, turn it 180 degrees and keep adjusting until it repeats. Now you’re on the level! Set your level on the ways of your machine or on the mounting surface of the table. Adjust the machine front to back as well as left to right. When you’re done all surfaces should read level. Double-check to be sure that the level repeats. If it repeats in all directions and the bubble now stays in the middle, you have achieved level. True the table

Now it’s time to determine if the table is running true.

Mount a magnetic base dial indicator in the wheel head and touch it to the table surface. Traverse the table left and right to determine if the table is true to the wheel head. The table should run true at less than .002″ down the entire traverse of the table. If the table is off you will need to consult with the manufacturer to get the correction procedure.

Check Oil Levels This is also a good time to check the level of the way oil in the oil cups under the table. You will notice a wooden roller that acts as a wicking device that coats oil on to the bottom of the flat and v-way of the table, providing a lubrication film for the table to ride on during the traverse. Check the Parallels

Next, its time to check the parallels to see how true they are. Again using a dial indicator and granite plate, sweep the parallels to determine if they are true. If they have run-out, the work piece will not be surfaced correctly. You may have to machine them true using a Bridgeport or other industrial-type machine.

Indicate the Cylinder Head/Block Rollover Clamps

Now let’s indicate the cylinder head/block rollover clamps. Check these in the same manner you did for the table and parallels. Again, you may be making corrections on the Bridgeport machine. You’ll then want to indicate the rollover bar to insure it’s not bent. You may be surprised to find these mounting components aren’t true. But it’s better to know where you are rather than wondering where you’ll end up. That’s why you’re reading this article. It’s better late than never. Remember if your tooling is true then your work will be true.

Deburr your tooling

Always deburr your tooling with deburring stones, as this will clean up the nicks and other imperfections created during set up. Also deburr the table to remove imperfections that will affect your tooling set-up, which will ultimately affect the finished piece. Once all of the tooling has been measured and corrected you can reinstall it knowing that your next surface job will be set up accurately.

Inspect the Grinding Head

Most grinding heads are held on with a tapered spindle and lock nut. When you replace the stones it’s a good time to remove and clean out all the bolt holes. You will want to run a tap into the threaded holes to clean out any gunk that has accumulated. Also inspect the wedge blocks for nicks and burrs. Deburr as necessary. Re-mount the head and install the new stones, make sure your new stones have good blotters on them. Never mount a grinding stone without a blotter. The blotter takes up any clearance and prevents the stones from loosening during the grinding operation. Snug up the bolts being sure not to over tighten, causing the stones to break.

Big Caution!Never allow more than 1″ to 1-1/4″ of stone protrusion to extend below the clamping wedges. If you do, you may experience a few fragments in the drywall or worse, in your face. As always wear safety glasses or a safety face shield. Always be safe! After you’ve properly mounted the new stones test run the wheel head. Turn on the coolant and let it run for about two minutes. Shut everything down and recheck the segments. Retighten as necessary. Run the machine again and recheck the bolts one more time and you should be ready to go.

Dress The Stones Properly for Longer Life

Dressing the stones is accomplished using a star type dresser generally mounted on the wheel head. This dresser is designed to dress the segments or stone in the manner designed by the manufacturer. Remember that the star-type dresser is designed to rotate. If it doesn’t rotate, get a new one right away. If your machine is equipped with a diamond dresser, check to make sure the diamond has a sharp point and be sure to rotate it on a regular basis. Keep in mind that your dressing technique can affect the way the grinding wheel acts. Fast dressing will give more grinding ability but the finish may suffer. Slow dressing will give you the finish, but it may cause the wheel to load up and require additional dressing. Adjust your technique according to the type of material you are grinding. Clean the Coolant Reservoir

If your machine uses coolant take the time to clean out the coolant reservoir, wipe down the table and drain back the galleys. Use a microbiostat to eliminate or kill the bacteria. It’s the bacteria that cause the odor in your shop, especially during the more humid months. If you keep your coolant at its proper mixture and periodically clean the reservoir this nasty smell will not waft throughout your shop.

A clever way to rinse down the work piece as well as the inside of the grinding machine is to attach a split tee to the coolant feed line and attaching a small length of garden hose with a spray nozzle. This allows you to get to all areas for a rinse after each job. Take the time to flush the coolant hoses as they also contain bacteria. And don’t forget to wipe down the splashguards or curtains.

If your machine is equipped with a hydraulic table you will need to periodically check the hydraulic fluid levels and clean or change the hydraulic fluid filter. If your machine has a mechanical feed then you’ll need to make adjustments to the belt drive. If it’s a direct drive then you need to check the fluid in the gearbox on a semi annual basis.

Adjust the Machine Tilt

The tilt of your machine needs to be adjusted according to the manufacturer’s instructions. All grinders have a leading edge in reference to the position of the grinding wheel. In general, the grinding head is tilted as much as .005″ to .015″ left to right and zero front to back. Always check the manual for how to set the tilt on your machine. If you experience dragging or a back cutting pattern this is an indication that the head tilt is out of adjustment.

Older machines using a solid grinding wheel require similar maintenance such as cleaning the coolant, checking the bolt holes to insure they are clean, removing any rust or scale from the mounting surface prior to mounting the new wheel.

If you have a broach, that means you have carbide tips that do the cutting. These tips need to be sharp and set correctly. Mount a magnetic base dial indicator and set them according to the manufacturer. A good rule of thumb is all tips should be within .0005″ for a proper finish. Keep in mind broaches are extremely sensitive to level. You must do a complete four-point level to achieve the desired finish results.

CBN and PCD, the Newer Alternatives

There has been quite a rush to CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) in cutting iron in the last ten years. Some machines are just wet grinders converted to use a CBN bit. Others have been designed to be a CBN cutting machine. Set up is critical when using CBN. The aggressive cutting action it delivers is directly related to how true the set up is and how conscientious the operator is.

CBN, an ultra-hard cutting material consisting of polycrystalline cubic boron nitride with a metallic or ceramic binder is primarily used to machine hardened ferrous material. It’s available either as a tip brazed to a carbide insert carrier or as a solid insert.

CBN has its limitations. It likes to cut large amounts of material with out interruption. Guess what? The average cylinder head or block has many holes that interrupt the cutting action of the tool bit. With that in mind it’s even more critical to have correct speeds and feeds on your surfacer to adjust for machining cylinder heads and blocks. CBN must be driven by rigid machine tools with secure holding fixtures. As I stated earlier, some CBN machines are simply converted wet grinders, and others are designed as CBN machine. But not all CBN tips are the same. The purity of CBN content separates price from quality. I recommend the titanium coated CBN tips, due to the witness mark left on the tip after you have surfaced a workpiece. Plus the titanium coating delivers longer life. These tips can be rotated about every 2-3 degrees so you can get the maximum life out of the tip. Plus if you’re using a solid CBN tip, after one side is worn out you simply flip it over and use it again. It’s essential that when you rotate the tip, that the holder is clean and the holding finger is sound. There’s nothing worse than having your machine throw a $250 tool bit somewhere in the shop, because chances are you are not going to find it. CBN can also be sharpened. If the tip isn’t fractured, it can be lapped back to spec, extending the life of the tip.

PCD (Polycrystalline Diamond) is an ultra-hard tool material (substrate) consisting of a synthetic polycrystalline diamond tip brazed to a carbide insert carrier. Primarily used to machine non-ferrous materials at high speeds, PCD has been developed specifically to machine aluminum. CBN only smears the aluminum when removing metal without producing the necessary finish today’s aluminum heads require. To extend the life of your tooling, use adequate lubrication.

Keep your tooling organized

Well-organized tooling is essential. If you have to chase around the shop to find the necessary bolts, washers and tee nuts, it just adds time to the job. Either get a tool board from the manufacturer or build a tool board right next to the machine. Check your mounting hardware for nicks, burrs and thread damage and replace or fix as required. There is nothing worse than having a job get tossed out of the machine with tooling failure due to lack of maintenance.

You may think that all I preach is maintenance, maintenance and more maintenance. However, without continued maintenance of your machines, you will not be getting the desired results your customers expect when it come to surfacing their components. Remember a clean and well-maintained machine will deliver many years of accurate service. Plus it will have more resale value when it’s time to upgrade.

Don’t forget, if you have more questions, contact the Goodson Tech Department at 1-800-533-8010.

by David Monyhan

If I’ve said it once, I’ve said it a thousand times. You can’t machine until it’s clean. That statement really holds true when it comes to getting the work piece ready for the machining operations ahead.

Even before you start the teardown, you can gather a lot of clues about what needs to be done. Encourage your counter guys to engage in as much conversation with the customer as possible. Just listening to him tell why he is bringing you this engine will yield tons of information that goes a long way toward understanding why the engine has failed. Of course if the engine could talk it would tell you all about its life. It’d be nice to have one of those little black boxes like airplanes have to record every aspect of the engine’s life, but until then, the spent engine components you are about to throw away will provide ample clues as to why it failed. Laying out the critical components for review will tell you a story of that engine’s life. It is like looking into the past to prevent a future failure.

So let’s get started.

Look at the oil pump pick up screen. Can you see through it or is it clogged from not changing the oil on regular basis? The oil pan is a real talker if you listen. It’s there to act a reservoir for the oil, not to be a catcher’s mitt for an exploding engine. When that engine needs to be rebuilt take the time to look for any metal particles in the sludge.

You can also cut the oil filter open and inspect the filter paper for metal. A filter-cutting tool works like a can opener and prevents any metal from the opening process from being introduced into the filter. Spread the filter paper out and with a bright light look for metal particles. These metal pieces can give you an indication of which component has failed or is about to fail.

Look at the camshaft and inspect the lobes for abnormal wear. Don’t forget to look at the sides and the bottoms of the lifters. The crankshaft is next. Are there any blue burning marks around the rod or main journals? These blue or black discolorations are an indication of heat. Paint discoloration is also an indicator of overheating. Did the last builder put “heat tabs” on? Look to see if they are still intact. The center will be melted out, if overheating occurred.

Next look closely at the piston skirt. If you notice scuffing only on one side there is a chance that the engine was started dry, or it could be the use of a sub-standard or improper head gasket. It is obvious that if you see the impression of a valve on the top of the piston it means just that…the valve was hitting the piston. Well duh! But hold on, the timing may have been off. Now if the piston is broken, there could possibly have been something like a nut or bolt accidentally dropped into the carburetor. Pre-ignition is indicated by melted and burned appearance of the piston crown cause by extreme heat. Detonation is post-ignition, and rings may be pinched tight in their grooves, also the piston may appear to be broken. A cracked spark plug insulator is also a good indication of detonation. Measuring the bore will tell you how well the last shop bored and honed the block.

Look at the valves. These critters really hold a lot of information concerning the engines running life. If the valve face is burned or torched, this could be cause by poor seating. Contributing factors include, lack of clearance to the valve guide, pre-ignition, defective cooling system. If you see cupping or tulip-ing of the valve head it indicates improper air/fuel mixture.

I lost a motor once coming out the mountains of Colorado. The motor tuliped the valve heads due to the extreme altitude I was in and not stopping until several hundred miles later at a considerable lower altitude. The computer did not have time to re-adjust itself to the lower altitude. I learned when you come down from 14,000 feet to about 900 feet without stopping something’s gonna give. Yes, I got a rebuilt engine from a local engine builder and I learned my lesson…. take a break when going down hill fully loaded.

Bent valves will generally tell you a timing chain or belt has let go but broken valves are another story. When the head breaks off it is generally caused by over revving the engine, weak springs, or valve float due to over revving, or sometimes even a stuck valve stem. Yes, it could even be the guide to seat alignment. Concentricity is key to any valve job. Breaking off the top or tip by the keeper grooves could be not paying attention during assembly, worn keeper grooves, or excessive valve train clearance.

Look at the rod and main bearings. You can tell if a lack of oil brought you this job. If an oiling problem is inherent in this engine’s shortened life then you will need to insure all oil galleries are cleaned for proper oil flow. Bearing failures occur 45.4% of the time due to dirt! Around 11% of the time it is due to lack of lubrication and only 3% of the time due to the finish of the crankshaft. A normal wear pattern on bearings should be centered and cover 2/3 to 3/4 of the bearing surface area. Thrust bearing failure is caused by constant pressure of the crankshaft against the thrust flange of the bearing and can be caused by improper clutch adjustment.

Now that you’ve examined all of the components and learned everything you can, it’s time to start cleaning.

Cleaning the bare heads and blocks in your hot tank or jet washer will get most of the gunk and oily goo off of the outside. There is a really cool tool called the “ Super Scraper” that uses a solid carbide flat blade to shave gaskets off. Run it about 30 degrees off the deck surface and this bad boy will remove that gasket fast and without damage to the base material!

Be sure to remove the all the freeze plugs and all the gallery plugs. For the block run a long cleaning brush through each and every gallery hole. Extra long brushes of 24” to 40” long are available for this job. Gallery plugs can be a real chore to remove. There are special tools designed for this task. They have a tool steel square end that fits into the gallery plug and are driven by an air impact wrench.  For those real stubborn plugs you can use the old stand by….a red bud torch and some beeswax. Heat up the gallery plug, remove the flame and touch the beeswax to the plug. The heat will “wick” the beeswax into the threads and allow you to remove the gallery plug easily. For those overhead cam cylinder heads there are vertical oil galleries that need to be brushed out as well. Crankshafts have oil holes and can trap all kinds of foreign stuff. Run the brush before and after grinding to insure no contaminants are left behind.

Carbon in the combustion chambers of the cylinder head took a long time to build up, and it’s not easy to remove. I have heard of soaking the entire work piece in carburetor cleaner, but the smell is horrible and it’s really dangerous. Wire brushes and sanding discs are labor intensive and probably do more damage if used improperly. Instruct your clean-up person to not touch any gasket surface with wire brushes or abrasive discs. Ultra sonic cleaners do a pretty good job, but the old glass bead machine is still the go to unit for this job. Before you put the work piece into the glass bead machine, cover the oil holes with some modeling clay or get yourself some “Plug-IT”. Just pinch off a piece and knead it between your fingers, then apply it to the head oil hole and completely cover them. If you have a thermal oven for cleaning, the oil, grease, and carbon are burned off. When you put the work piece into the steel shot machine you will achieve an almost perfectly cleaned component…. right down to the bare casting. Aluminum is still cleaned in the glass bead machine or ultra sonic cleaner or you can change to stainless or walnut shells for your airless cleaner to do the aluminum.

Keeping all of the small components like valves, springs, keepers etc. can be a challenge. There are a number of small parts holders available in the marketplace. Go ahead and invest in these little containers, save your coffee cans for other things. There are a number of plastic (ABS) organizers that really do keep those components from growing feet and walking around your shop. Especially when you are working on those multi-valve head over head cam cylinder heads. Some of those applications must have a gazillion parts for you to keep track of. Always label your parts baskets for what job and for which customer. This way when all the components come to the assembly area you don’t have to spend valuable time searching throughout the shop.

Prior to assembly, recheck all components to insure all cleaning was properly performed, and the components are machine and ready to go. I still use Tide soap and a large clean nylon brush for final cleaning of the cylinders. Lay everything out in an order conducive to its assembly. Keep your hands clean, and I know you will have a finished job you and your customers will be proud of.

See ya in the shop!

By David P. Monyhan, ASE-Certified Head Specialist
As seen in Engine Builder Magazine

There’s an old saying in the machine shop world, “You can’t machine until it’s clean.” Let’s face it; you can’t even really do a basic diagnosis until the work piece is clean. Yes, you can see a burnt valve, maybe even a big crack, but until that rascal is totally clean you’re only guessing about why it failed.

There are a lot of hot tanks and jet washers used every day in the shop. They seem to have gone full circle. The main cleaning process used to be the hot tank, then the jet washer made in-roads, then thermo cleaning, and now ultra sonic cleaning machines are popping up in a variety of shops. However, there seems to be a move back to jet washers.

Hot Tank Basics

The hot tank is the basic cleaning machine. Some have an agitator to move the parts inside a vat of a heated chemical solution. With enough time you get a somewhat clean work piece. If your hot tank doesn’t have agitation you need to create some. One of the easiest ways is to run an air line into the solution. Put an air regulator on it and allow about 25 – 30 PSI to bubble your hot tank solution. This will speed the cleaning process by about 35%.

If your hot tank doesn’t have a thermometer, get one. Or at least use an infrared temperature gun to ensure your tank is about 160°F. Be sure to mix your solution correctly and periodically take a PH test to confirm that the ratio of chemical to water is right – about 12 on the PH scale. I suggest starting weak and working up to the recommended strength. If you mix too much chemical into the water it won’t clean. In this case more is NOT better. Periodically you will need to add water, as evaporation will occur. Always use a PH test strip to ensure the mix is correct.

Hot tanks are relatively maintenance free; however certain areas still need to be checked. Grease agitation joints or fittings and make sure your gas burner tube is clean on the inside as well the outside. If it’s gas fired you will also need to wire brush the outside of your burner tube. Next time you drain your hot tank, wire brush the electric heating elements to clean off the gunk, this will speed the heating process. Also periodically scoop the settled residue from the tank. There’s no need to waste cleaning solution on gunk in the bottom of your tank. Remember residue or gunk isolates and insulates.

TLC for the Jet Washer

Jet washers need maintenance too. They have a lot of moving parts – turntables, pumps, water nozzles, etc. All of these components need to be maintained to provide fast, thorough, trouble-free cleaning. Jet washers use three ingredients – pressure, heat and chemicals – to do their intended job.

I recommend you completely drain and clean your jet washer at least twice a year. You may need to do it more often according to the demand you’re putting on your machine.

Drain the tank, and remove the gunk. You may need to use a scoop shovel or hoe to get all of it. Next, high-pressure rinse the inside of the machine. Remove the grates and pressure rinse the interior of the water reservoir. This is a good time to wire brush the electric heating elements and scrape or wire brush the burner tube. Take the time to clean the grates, removing old gaskets and valve stem seals.

Now remove the nozzles from the water manifold. Inspect it for material that could clog the lines and use a small diameter wire to clean each nozzle. The nozzles are great places for little bits of silicon to hide and when that happens your cleaning is not as complete as it should be. Keep the nozzles out until you have refilled the tank with water. Do NOT turn on the heat yet. Close the door and push the pump button and flush the entire manifold system. This will clean any additional foreign matter from the manifold system. Now you can re-install the nozzles.

Next, grease the turntable bearings and the pump if it has grease zerks. Grease according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Inspect the door seals and replace if needed. Also make sure the safety limit switches are working. There’s nothing worse that having an employee open the door and get hit with a bath of scalding hot chemically treated water. Remember to have your employee’s dress for the job. Wear eye protection, shoulder length gloves and a rubber protective apron with rubber steeled toe boots. This will provide protection in the event of a problem.

It’s also important to wipe down the outside of your jet washer. This will give you a look a t welded seams to see if there are any minor leaks that you can repair before they make your whole shop a cleaning tank.

Turn on the heating elements or light the burner tube and bring your tank up to operating temperature. Most jet washers work best between 160°F and 190°F. Mix your jet wash solution according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Again, it’s better to mix weak at first and creep up on the proper ratio of water to chemical. If you mix too strong the machine will not clean. Do not breathe the dust from the chemical you are using. It burns like heck and can really ruin your day. Remember, you are carbon based. It WILL clean your clock.

Remember the PH test. The ideal is 12 on the PH scale. Add chemical until you have achieve this rating. Make sure the temperature is correct. You may want to confirm the temperature with an infrared thermometer to be sure that the thermostat is working correctly. Turn on the pump and let the jet washer run about five minutes. Open the door and inspect the inside for any debris that has been ejected from the manifold system. Load the turntable with components and turn on the pump and timer. After the cycle is complete you should have very clean work pieces.

Check for foaming, which means a couple of things. Either the solution is not mixed correctly or the temperature is not correct. If you find all is well and you still have foaming, add some de-foamer.

It all boils down to this…a clean and well-maintained cleaning machine will do it intended job quickly and efficiently. If it’s not maintained properly you’ll spend more labor cleaning the work piece by hand after it comes out. Remember, “We can’t machine until it’s clean.

Pre-cleaning

Disassembled work pieces will come out cleaner than assembled work pieces. Be sure to remove the oil gallery plugs and run a long stemmed brush through to loosen any residue prior to jet washing. Remove any big chunks of gasket material or crud by hand using a gasket scraper or wire brush. Try to remove as much silicon as possible prior to washing. This will prevent that silicon from clogging up your nozzles. Also remove the VSIs and valve stem seals from the cylinder head. You can put the smaller components into a small parts basket and clean them with the head or block. Mark or tag all components to be sure nothing gets lost and tie down any tin ware to keep it from blowing around inside the jet washer.

Remember to use an aluminum-safe chemical for non-iron components. If your aluminum components are turning black you either have the wrong chemical or the mix is too strong. Remember if it’s too strong you need to remove some of the solution and add fresh water to get the ratio correct.

In a perfect world you would have two jet washers. One for heavy duty cleaning and one for the final rinse prior to assembly. A maintenance schedule should be created for each unit. Protection of components when they are clean is critical. Rinse the components thoroughly. If they are not going to be machined right away spray a light coating of rust preventive on any exposed machined surface. Make sure you tag all components so they stay with the other components, as the job approaches competition.

On a final note, keep the cleaning area clean and organized. Wipe up spills and oil or grease to prevent any accidents. Protect your employees by making sure they are dressed properly to work in the cleaning room.

Don’t forget, if you have more questions, contact the Goodson Tech Department at 1-800-533-8010.

By David P. Monyhan, ASE-Certified Head Specialist
As seen in Engine Builder Magazine

In the last couple of years we’ve discussed the various maintenance requirements for your big machines – surface grinders, crank grinders, cleaning machines, etc. Now we’re going to take a look at five other devices that play an important part in building the best possible engines for your customers – the air compressor, hydraulic press, brake lathe, bench grinder and seat grinding set.

Air compressor

We generally take this unit for granted, but let’s face it; it does supply compressed air to all of our machines. If this machine goes down the whole shop goes down until we get air back into the system. Trust me, blowing into the end of your air impact wrench just ain’t gonna get ‘er done.

Be honest, when was the last time you changed the oil in your air compressor? This should be done at least every year. Use non-detergent 30-weight oil, but as always, double check your owner’s manual and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the proper weight oil. You may also want to consider using a “compressor cool” additive to keep the compressor oil cooler and minimize condensation in the pump.

Next inspect the drive belts for wear. Always replace these in matched sets to maintain a balanced tension from drive to driven pulley. Also, make sure your belt guard is doing its job. If it’s just hanging on, take the time to affix it properly to the machine. Remember,  “safety first!”

If you look under your air storage tank you will see a water drain valve. Compressed air creates condensation and condensation in water. During the humid summer months you may need to drain this reservoir daily and during cooler months, at least once a week. I recommend an in-line water separator and automatic oilier attached no less than 10 to 12 feet from the air compressor. This distance allows the air to semi-cool before going through the filter allowing it to better do its job. Keep in mind some of your high dollar machines need air to run and you don’t want any water to create rust or contamination in the air system.

Now follow all of the air lines that run through the shop. Are there any leaks? If there are, you’re wasting money in electricity to replenish the air supply. Take the time to repair any air leaks you may find.

I recommend placing automatic oilers at the air stations that feed your air tools.  Most of your machines come with filters and oilers. Unnecessary water and dirt in your lines will shorten the life of your air tools. There are these little caps that I like to see used to cover the nipple of your air tools when not in use, they are an inexpensive and easy-to-use way to keep debris from getting inside your air tools.

Hydraulic press or H-frame press

Many shops have a hydraulic press for a variety of pressing jobs. Be sure to change the hydraulic oil at least every two years. Replace it with a high quality, non-foaming type or whatever the manufacturer recommends.

Does your press have a tonnage gauge? Does it work? If not, replace it. It’s important to know how much pressure you’re putting on a part. Some presses use air over hydraulic to create the necessary pressure. Again, make sure there is an oiler and water separator on the press and periodically clean and add fresh oil.

Inspect your pressing tools for nicks, burrs, mushrooming etc. If your tools are mushroomed, you are just waiting for an accident to happen. Replace those worn tools. Always wear eye and face protection during any pressing job.

Brake lathe

If you turn drums and rotors in your shop, the brake lathe needs attention as well. Put a dial indicator on the spindle and measure run-out. If you see more than .002” run-out you need to either straighten that arbor or order a new one. Check the drive belts for wear, inspect the pulleys and clean or replace as necessary. Inspect your cones and adaptors for nicks and burrs and de-nick or de-burr as required. Organize your tools by size to speed the mounting of the various drums and rotors.

Inspect the dovetail ways on your machine. Clean and adjust the gib to allow free movement without binding. Caution … DO NOT lubricate the dovetail slides on your brake lathe. Lubrication will attract dust and chips and will cause premature wear on the slides. Look over all the controls, knobs, switches, boots, seals, and safety guards and replace as necessary.

Dump the chip tray every day. You can add these cast iron chips to your wife’s rose garden; it actually adds iron nutrients to the soil. Wipe the machine down and repaint when necessary.

Bench grinder

Inspect the grinding wheels and dress to insure they are straight and true. Look at the wire brush for any missing sections of wire and replace the whole wire brush as needed.  Inspect the bearing for noise and replace as required. Make sure your safety shields are in place and always wear eye and face protection.

Seat Grinding Set

I know that many of you have those really cool “cylinder head machining centers,” but don’t forget the importance of keeping your seat grinding kit up to par. This is a must-have tool for those single combustion chamber jobs, as well as those small displacement valve jobs that don’t easily mount to your cylinder head machining center. Plus, I know that many of you use your seat grinding kit each and every day for all of your valve jobs.  Inspect your dresser diamond. Make sure it has a point. Make sure the threads the diamond screws into are clean and re-tap as required. Check the stone holder pilot in the dresser; over time it will wear and needs to be replaced.  Measure the ID of the stone holders for wear. You can simply put a brand new pilot into the stone holder and pull it out, listening for a popping sound. This popping sound tells you that the clearance is tight. But we’re machinists and I recommend that you measure the ID to eliminate any guess work. Spin the stone holder and listen for any bearing noise or grit contamination noise. Replace the stone holder when you hear any bearing or grit noise.

Next, organize your pilots according to size. Measure the pilots at the top and the bottom and note the difference. If you have more than .001” in wear, the pilot is junk and needs to be replaced. If the tops of your pilots are worn your valve seat concentricity will be severely compromised.

If you use an air grinder, clean and lubricate it daily. If you use an electric grinder, pay attention to the trigger assembly. See any sparks when you press the trigger? Replace it before somebody gets shocked. On either unit the nose bearing assembly will wear and replacements are available. The drive end is also subject to wear. It must fit snugly into the stone holder. Here’s a tip for you, cut a piece of leather about the diameter of a dime and put it into the stone holder. This will act as a cushion and help control any jumping or chatter of the stone holder. One other thing, use bounce springs when grinding your valve seats. These springs allow the stone to automatically lift off the seat and actually leaves a nicer finish, while controlling chatter.

I know this may seem like a lot of extra effort for these “smaller” machines but remember, if you take care of them, they’ll take care of you.

See you in the shop!

Don’t forget, if you have more questions, contact the Goodson Tech Department at 1-800-533-8010.

By David P. Monyhan, ASE-Certified Head Specialist
As seen in Engine Builder Magazine

It’s that time of year again. The racing season is underway. Spring is here and hopefully your shop is getting busier. Before it gets too hectic, it’s time to do some spring-cleaning in your shop.

The first stop is the first place your customers will see – the front counter. Get rid of any old magazines and replace them with new ones. Clean off the counter, take out the trash, wash the windows, replace any burned out light bulbs. It doesn’t need to be spotless, but it’s your only chance to make a good first impression.

Teardown & Cleaning Department

Now for the shop itself. The first stop is the teardown and cleaning department. Clean the floors and organize all of your tools in a way that makes teardown, inspection, and cleaning of an engine and its components faster and easier. Make sure all of your airlines are free of moisture by checking or installing a water separator. Lubricate all air tools according to manufacturer recommendations. Clean your air hoses and double check the fittings to be sure they don’t leak and are easy to hook and unhook from the various tools.

Check your glass bead machine – empty the dust bag and examine the viewing glass for scratches or deterioration that may obscure your ability to see what you’re working on. Also check your nozzle for wear then test the air pressure. Most machines should be set at 80 PSI; any more that that and you will pulverize your beads prematurely and spend unnecessary dollars on glass bead replacement.

Test the strength of chemicals in the hot tanks or jet washers. You might want to clean out the build up of sludge in the reservoir. This can be done in most machines without completely draining the water. You can fabricate a scoop with drains to get the crud out but leave the water in. Add water and chemical as required.

Check your stock of parts tags and metal markers and order a fresh supply if necessary.

Cylinder Head Department

In the cylinder head department check the air lines, adjust the air regulator to the minimum requirement for the machines or tools they feed to and check the water separators to insure they are doing their job. Clean out the reservoir of your valve refacer and add new oil. Check the diamond and the wear on the grinding wheels and replace as necessary. This is also a good time to check the drive belts and pulleys.

Your seat and guide machine should be clean. Dump the chip tray and vacuum out all the nooks and crannies that attract and hold the chips that don’t make it into the chip tray. Inspect all the slides, gibs, and tables for any nicks or burrs and remove as required. Make sure your level is level then level the machine (for more on this, check out the Machine Maintenance column in the May 2003 issue of Engine Builder).

Inspect all tooling for wear, call your favorite shop supply company and order new tooling as required, also send out tools that can be resharpened. If you have a seat grinding kit, look over your stone and pilot inventory and replace as necessary. Check the point on your dressing diamond.

If you have a wet grinder, inspect the coolant reservoir and clean and replenish the coolant as required. Check underneath the table and fill the oil cups. Inspect the under rollers and insure they rotate without obstruction. Remove the tooling and examine the table and tooling for burrs and nicks. As with the seat and guide machine, make sure your level is level then level the machine.

Inspect your valve spring compressors to insure the jaws are not worn or broken, add lubrication oil to the air spring compressors. Look at your head assembly bench, clean it up and deburr as necessary. Note the tool board to insure it is not only organized but also easy to reach. Do you have protective bags or boxes in which to put the finished heads and other components?

Block Department

Inspect the boring machine, checking all tooling for wear. Recalibrate your micrometers and re-level. Again, inspect your set up tooling for nicks and burrs and fix as needed. Clean up all the chips, and if you have an air float machine check the water separator and automatic oilier to insure function; adjust as needed. Check your drive belts and pullies. Inspect the column and confirm the seals are doing their job. Make sure all of your control knobs and speed dials are in good shape and not broken; replace as necessary. The honing machine should have clean honing oil; the filters should be fresh and remove any sludge from the reservoir. This would be a good time to install a new filter mat on top of that expanded grate under the rollover fixture.

Assembly Department

This is where you really need to be organized! A clean, well-lit assembly department is your key to a properly assembled engine. Don’t let an unorganized department create a come back or warranty claim for your customers.

Wipe down the assembly bench. Organize all of your measuring tools. Create a special place to organize all of the components that are a part of the assembly procedure for either cylinder heads or the short block. There are several really cool organizers available for Cylinder Head, Pistons and Rods and now there’s even one for organizing Overhead Cam Components.  Make sure your assembly lubes are sealed or covered when not in use. Also, make sure you are using lint free assembly wipes. Have some nitrile gloves for the assembler to wear during this process. It’s best to do the final painting away from the assembly department. You don’t want paint floating around this area to coat other components. Make sure you have plenty of protective storage bags for all of your finished work. Cylinder head boxes are great for shipment, and of course mark everything so it stays with the job. Put the customers name on the gasket kit, as they will need the balance of the gaskets from a master gasket kit for the valve covers, water pump, etc.

Stand back and look over your shop. Are you impressed? If you are, chances are you customers will be as well. Your employees will be, and the end result is no comebacks. Keep it clean!

Don’t forget, if you have more questions, contact the Goodson Tech Department at 1-800-533-8010.

By David P. Monyhan,
As seen in Engine Builder Magazine

Over the past several columns, I’ve talked about a variety of shop machines and their maintenance schedules. I’ve talked about how to get your shops cleaned up and looking good for customers’ inspection. This article is going to deal with a problem that’s right under your nose … coolant aromas.

Let me paint you a picture of summer in your shop … the birds are chirping, the fish (and mosquitoes) are biting and everyone is enjoying the steamy days of summer. It’s late in the day, when you walk into your shop and suddenly you’re stopped dead in your tracks! There is a looming malodorous emanation in the air. “What is that smell?  Where is it coming from? Do my customers smell it too?” I mean the smell is so bad, that even stink would say “Whew that stinks!”

Guess what? It’s the coolant tanks in your shop. That’s right, all that grinding swarf and metal mixed together and fermenting in your coolant reservoirs have promoted the growth of bacteria and fungi which are now contaminating your coolant systems.

How could this happen, you wonder? Let me give you a little background.

In the days of old, we used heavy petroleum based coolants. It was nearly impossible to maintain proper mix levels and coolant life was never very long. Today, we use mostly synthetic coolants, which are better in a variety of ways. They last longer, keep the work piece cooler, prevent rust in the machine and prevent the abrasive wheels from loading up. They’re also easier on your dial indicators and other tools that come in contact with the coolants.

But how do the microorganisms get into the coolant system? They’re not in the coolants themselves, right? It all comes down to one simple ingredient. Water.

That’s right, water. Some water is hard, and some is soft. Despite all of the treatments and purification systems, some water still contains microorganisms, and of course, the heat of summer can cause nasty things to happen.

Well, what are you going do about it you ask? I’ll tell ya what we’re going to do. We’re going to have to clean the coolant systems. All machines that use coolant in their machining process are subject to this bug growth. Surface grinders, flywheel grinders, belt grinders, crank grinders, cam grinders and other water-cooled machines fall into this category.

A quick and dirty solution is to cover up the smell … a little Pine-Sol™ in the tank, a little more coolant … but that’s just a band-aid approach and won’t get to the root of the problem. Here’s what I suggest to combat what’s bugging you.

Take a look at your schedule. Is there a stretch when you won’t be using your machines? The weekend, or perhaps some vacation days coming up? Take advantage of that down time to clear the air.

The day before that down time begins, drain out all of the coolant from all the machines. It’s important to clean all of your machines at the same time so that you won’t  risk cross-contamination from one machine to another. Remove the coolant pump and clean the entire reservoir with a diluted solution of bleach and water. Remove the intake screen from the pump and clean it as well as the impeller. Next wipe down all the coolant return troughs. Now is the time to remove all the coolant hoses. This is where people get re-bugged. They forget or don’t know to remove the coolant lines. They need to be flushed or even replaced.

Coolant lines and troughs are great places for bugs to set up house keeping. These components develop cracks, fittings and connections have crevasses where they interface; unpainted castings have porous surfaces. All these areas are “critter condos,” complete with rest rooms. What you smell is their untidy style of living.

Wipe them thoroughly with the bleach solution and dry everything completely. Now its time to repaint the troughs to seal the surface.

Once everything is cleaned and painted, take that time off. Spend time with the family. Have fun! When you return to work, get there early and reassemble your machines. Add fresh water to the coolant tanks. Mix the proper ratios of coolant per manufacturer’s recommendations. Now the final step. Add some Microbiostat to your coolant tank. This additive will prevent that bacteria and fungi from reforming. As always its important to periodically check the levels of coolant to water ratio. Get a good PH checker. This test will also tell you when you need to add more biocide to your solution.

Why is all this treatment necessary? Because, unchecked growth of microorganisms in metal working fluids can cause fluid break-down, resulting in damage to the coolant systems and components, tools or even the work piece. Microorganisms can also affect workers by causing foul orders, skin irritations or even worse, allergic reactions, which can cause an employee to miss work.

Keep a written record of when coolants are changed as well as when additional biocide is added. This will keep you a step ahead of those bugs trying to infiltrate your systems and most importantly the workflow.  Clean fresh coolant will always deliver a better finish on the various work pieces you machine, and it keeps your machines from rusting as well. So drink up, enjoy a cool refreshing glass of water, and watch out for bugs in your shop.

Don’t forget, if you have more questions, contact the Goodson Tech Department at 1-800-533-8010 or visit the Tech Bulletin Board.

By David P. Monyhan, ASE-Certified Cylinder Head Specialist
As seen in Engine Builder, June 2004

Let’s face it; the hardest part about starting each day is being ready to work when the start bell rings. The worst way to start your day is to spend time searching for where you left off the day before. The best way to be ready is to get your shop together. This means that every day certain things must be shut down, cleaned, put away, wiped down and organized.

Get yourself a pedometer, attach it to your belt and at the end of the day see how many miles you’ve walked around your shop. You’ll probably be surprised. Now, step back and imagine how you can reorganize your shop to reduce the distance you’re walking every day. Not only will your legs and feet feel better, your productivity will improve.

The First Encounter

The front counter is your customers’ first look at your business. It should be well lit, clean and organized. Add some graphics to dress it up. Contact your parts suppliers to see if they have banners, posters, etc. that you can use. Make sure it has seating for your customers when they are waiting. I suggest that you display some of your finished work pieces for the customer to inspect. Add a card that describes what machining operations have been performed on a particular set of heads or engine. If you sponsor any local racers have them sign a photo of their car and hang it on the wall. Have coffee or water available for your customers. You may also want to have current industry magazines in a rack, especially if your shop has been featured in one of them.

Don’t let your front counter become a black hole of accumulated stuff that makes the place look disorganized. As soon as a job is checked in, it should go directly to the staging area for its intended department. The necessary labor forms, pricing schedule and basic inspection tools such as micrometers and dial calipers should be readily available to your counter people.
If you can afford it, have all of your front line people dressed in attractive, clean shirts screen printed or embroidered with your company name or logo. Your entire staff of machinists should be in uniforms as well. This will tell the customer that you’re a professional shop that does quality work.

Cleaning and Teardown

Is the teardown area well lit? Does it have a big metal tear bench? Where is the jet washer? Is there a rinse booth? How are all the customers’ engine components identified? Where do you store the cores?

Keep your cleaning and inspection processes in a separate area. This will prevent contamination from spreading into the machining and assembly areas. Clean, inspect, label and identify the necessary machining requirements.

Machining Departments

Take a look at the distance between related machines. Is the boring bar located near the honing machine? How about your pressure testing and crack repair stations? Are they arranged in a logical work order or are they spread at random? A little logic in your shop set-up can reduce the number of steps as the work pieces travel through the shop and can allow the use of lifting equipment or overhead hoists by more than one department.

Assembly Area

Make sure your assembly area is clean and organized. Are necessary tools and components in easy reach? Have an area to store finished work pieces for easy retrieval. Be sure to identify all finished work and protect them in plastic bags or heavy-duty boxes so your hard work doesn’t get damaged while in storage.

Okay, you’ve got your shop organized. You can’t stop there. You can have the most organized, cleanest shop in the world, but if your service is sub-par, your business will suffer. If you say a job will be ready by 5:00PM on Friday, then make sure its ready to go by 4:30. If you’re running behind call the customer right away and let him know what is going on. Never, and I mean never “tomorrow” your customers to death, as it will probably be the last job you receive from them. Also, if you discover that additional work needs to be done to a work piece, call to get approval before beginning the work.

Provide the customer with a check off sheet signed by the each department to show that each operation was quality check and approved by that department’s foreman. Don’t forget to supply the necessary related items for that job. You can increase your counter sales if your people remember to go through a check out list of related items the customers will need. All engine jobs need gaskets, gasket sealer, paint, belts, hoses, clamps, etc. You can actually increase your sales per job and insure your customers are getting quality support products for the job. Be sure to offer any torque specs or how-to information for reinstalling the job. And always say thank you!

I personally believe every shop in America should have an open house once a year. Invite your best customers as well as potential customers. Give shop tours – this is the time to really show off your shop, your employees and your company’s machining skills. Invite some of your suppliers to talk to your customers about why you’ve chosen to use their products in your engines. Have fun; offer some door prizes, like hats or t-shirts with your company name on them. Give away a free valve job as the grand prize. You will be surprised by how much goodwill one afternoon can create for your shop. People will tell other people about your skills and services and word of mouth is the best advertising you’ll never have to pay for.

If you have your shop together, your employees will work smarter and faster and your customers will be impressed, which will confirm they made the right choice in bringing you their work in the first place. Want to improve efficiency and profits? Get your shop together!

Remember, if you have more questions, contact the Goodson Tech Department at 1-800-533-8010 (customers outside the US & Canada, please call 507-452-1830).