Comments on: Boring Machine

By: Motocross Equipment

Motocross Equipment — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 15:21:31 +0000

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By: Go Kart DIY

Go Kart DIY — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 22:58:19 +0000

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By: Dave

Dave — Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000

Will, Our sales representives sell new and rebuilt/used machine shop equipment. Which state do you have your shop in? With your approval, I will have our sales rep contact you to discuss the boring bar you are looking for. You may call me direct @ 1-800-533-8010 ext #281. All the best, David P. Monyhan National Sales Manager Goodson Tools & Supplies

By: Jim Tapp

Jim Tapp — Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000

Please contact the following; Kwik-Way 1-800-553-5953, Peterson Machine Tools 1-800-255-6308, and Winona Van Norman 1-800-533-8008. The companies have representatives that sell both new and quality trades. You may also advertise on the Goodson website. Click on aftermarket Xchange on our home page. Thank You.

By: Will

Will — Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000

Any idea what price range we are talking before I start making calls? Thanks

By: Randy

Randy — Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000

Will, I think you might want to check http://www.ezbore.net From what it sounds like you’re looking for I think this will work fine.

By: Brian Bailey, Bailey's Machine Shop

Brian Bailey, Bailey's Machine Shop — Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000

I have an old Rottler boring bar in my shop that was made in the 1950’s. It goes from 2 1/8 to 4 1/8. I got it by putting an ad in the newspaper. I got a phone call from a Ford dealer that had it sitting under his workbench for years. Apparently none of his greaseball mechanics knew how to run it or at least he didn’t trust them with it. I got it for $200. It has so much dust on it, it looked like fuzzy mold growing off it. It has its fair share of abuse by idiots, hammer marks in the bar itself, squashed down knurls on the various knobs etc. but it had little wear. You could still see the factory feed marks on the bar from the cylindrical grinder that machined it. I took it apart completely, hot tanked the castings, reknurled the control wheels in the lathe in my shop, carefully hand stoned the dings out of the bar, repainted it, reassembled it and tested it for accuracy. It has been doing everything from snowmobiles, ATV’s, motorcycles up to fairly large V-8’s. I even resleeved a Chevy big block 396 with it once. I made a boring table out of 1” hot rolled plate about 10”x 18”. I cut a hole out of it, milled it on both sides, hand scraped it until ot was parallel on both sides within a tenth or so, mounted it on ready rod on 4 corners for legs and made a movable plate that clamps the cylinders with nuts on the ready rod. I works great. I’m presently building another boring stand that is a copy of a Kwik-Way. I had the main top plate cast in a foundry from malleable steel, which is what I believe Kwik-Way uses. The present setup works quite well. I’ve checked it accuracy on a surface plate using a machinist’s square and parallels and the cylinders are absolutely perpindicular to the base flanges every time. The bores are accurate to .0003” or better if I’m really careful which is the accuracy of a new bar or better. The Rottler bar also has a brush type motor. I’ve used a solid state speed control and can slow the bar down to a crawl. This is quite nice for use with a wide carbide cylinder chamfering tool thbat I made myself that allows the rings to enter without chipping. At normal speeds that toolbit would chatter. Some years ago the motor burned out. A retired motor winder showed me how to rewind the burned out coils, which I did. It’s run for another 28 years now. I have what would have otherwise cost me as much as 10 grand.